![]() When riding alone, always carry a basic multitool, a form of identification, cash (dollar bills can also be used as a tire boot), and your phone in case of an emergency. Wearing a helmet is important, but there’s more to staying safe on your bike than just protecting your head. That is information to tell the specialist when you visit your local bike shop so they can help you make the best purchase. For example: Maybe you can only ride 20 miles now, but you have a 100-mile ride in your sights. So, think about how you intend to use the bike now, and how you might want to grow with it. Are you going to log casual miles on the weekends? Are you planning to commute to work? Road bike frames have specific styles and components tailored for each of these goals, and there are some at every price point. Of course, you also want to pick a bike that fits your budget and riding style. Over the last few years, road bikes have gone electric, so check out the latest fleet of e-bikes if you want to rely on power coming from more than your own body. We highly recommend visiting your local bike shop, though, as you can try different styles and sizes. Or, when sitting on the saddle, aim for just a slight bend in the knee at the bottom of your pedal stroke. Stand over the top tube and shoot for about an inch of clearance between your body and the frame. Just like picking the perfect pair of running shoes, you first need to size your bike. This is the most common and accessible form of cycling for beginners, and the bikes are designed to help you navigate paved bike paths and city streets. While we’re big fans of all types of bikes, we’re specifically talking about bikes suitable for the road. Of course, you can’t get started without a great set of wheels. How to Start a Consistent Cycling Routine.But if need be, I can switch it up and do right finishes. ![]() If possible, I do left finishes because they look really showy when done right. Likewise, Gio has a fabulous left finish, but if his hips are bothering him that day then it looks jerky, so I will do a right finish. But if he is at all stressed (he can have bouts of ring nerves), then I will do a right finish because his lefts look sloppy and slow when he is stressed. If Romeo is working very sharply, then he has a nice snappy left finish. I will judge which one I use based on the individual situation. My guys know both left and right finishes. Left finishes can look really lazy and sloppy if not trained properly, in which case you might be better off doing a right finish. Larger dogs will often do a finish behind the handler as it is easier for them to line themselves up straight by doing it that way. I find that left finishes look a lot more flashy IF you have a dog that will do a nice left finish. Doesn't matter as long as the dog is quick and straight. You can choose to have them go to heel position either around behind you or directly to the left. But you aren't going to be docked marks for using terms that are not standard.Īs for getting into heel position, at the end of an exercise the judge will say something along the lines of "finish your dog". You don't want to confuse the judge, so don't get too elaborate. Of course, there is some common sense to be used as well. Or, you could do whatever the heck you want, call sit "banana" for all it matters. But I know some people that train schutzhund and will use the German words for the commands. Of course, most people call sit "sit", down "down", heel "heel", etc. Likewise, there is no standard set of vocal commands to use. For instance, my hand signal for down is my right arm bent across the front of my body, hand flat, palm down.Īs long as the signal is quick and efficient, it doesn't matter what you do. They are all accepted in the obedience ring. So I don't put a lot of thought and effort into sticking to "standard" hand signals, rather just using whatever sticks. Even though I never train like that, the idea that that is how the command was originally used makes me nauseous. The raised hand starts as a threat, and becomes a command. Ever wonder why a hand raised straight above the head is a signal for down? Gives nice leverage to swing that hand down and force the dog to the ground if he is too slow. a threat of quick and efficient punishment should the dog not do the command. The hand signals that have become standard used to have a functional purpose. It makes me shudder how obedience dogs were originally (and unfortunately sometimes still are) trained. ![]() ![]() Personally, I avoid using some of the "standard" hand signals just based on the history behind them. You can use whatever you want, within reason. ![]()
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